I spent a few nights at Clark Island State Park two weeks ago. The island is located in north Puget Sound, west of Lummi Island and east of Orcas Island.
A popular destination among sailboaters and paddlers of the Cascadia Marine Trail System, the entire island is a Washington State Park and accessible only by boat.
Click the map link on the left to view detailed metrics for the trip including time, distance, and speed.
I left Fairhaven Boatworks around 10:30 in the morning on Thursday, 5/31. The conditions were not that favorable, with winds from the south-southeast at 9 mph against a strong ebb tide. I decided to give it a try, despite the conditions and warnings from a discouraged boater at the dock who said he couldn’t get past bouy #2 in his power boat.
I soon realized the difference between a 4-day load and 2-day load in terms of weight and how it affects my boat’s performance. I didn’t have the bouancy and freeboard to take the 2 to 3 foot chop I began to encounter. Water was slopping in faster than my self-bailing valve could remove it. I decided it wasn’t going to happen when the water level in my boat was touching the bottom of my sliding seat rig’s I-beam. I turned toward shore, got to a little clamer water, and bailed my boat free and took a southernly course towards Chuckanut Bay.
Nearing the north end of Chuckanut Bay, I again tried heading west across Bellingham Bay. The results were no better than my first attempt. I soon turned back to the south, tucked into a cove at the north end of Chuckanut Bay, and again bailed the water from my boat. It was apparent that I would have to wait for the early afternoon slack to cross the bay. So, I headed over to Chuckanut Island (Dot Island?) and spent an hour or so there for lunch.
Sure enough as the tide slacked the chop settled down a bit and I was off on a beeline for the southern shore of Eliza Island. As I approached Eliza I could tell the flood tide was beginning and could see the rips and eddies forming up as the incomming tide pushed around the island. I passed between Eliza’s south shore and the large rocks there and spotted a sea lion there basking in the sun. What an enormous beast! I was able to clearly see it’s sillouette even after I was a half mile away.
After rounding the southern tip of Lummi Island I got a visual on the west end of Lummi Rocks to my north and fixed a course for them. I soon noted that I was rowing in some ‘confused water’ as it seemed to be going in a variety of directions. Looking further out, I could see there was a better flood current and adjusted my course to bring me to it. Sure enough, as I moved out away from the Lummi shoreline the current became stronger and my speed increased. The winds were calm and I was soaking up the scenery, basking in the sun, and really enjoying a beautiful afternoon on the water. I couldn’t have asked for better conditions to cross the wide open and busy shipping lane in Rosario Strait. I got a visual on Clark Island, adjusted my course, and continued on.
Soon I was near the turning bouy that’s near the center of the intersecting shipping lanes between Orcas, Lummi, and Sinclair Islands. I was impressed with how much the bouy was leaning to the north and could hear the sound of water rushing past it even though I cruised by a good 500 yards to the east. I checked my speed on my GPS and was impressed to see I was going over 7 mph! Wow, what fun I had as I got into a smooth cadence. Fun is good, but it nearly distracted me into making a big mistake. I glanced around to check my position and realized I had quickly covered much more north distance but had not gone far enough west. I was running the risk of overshooting Clark Island, my destination, and rowing north out into the Strait of Georgia where I could see no land all the way to the horizon….
My mood suddenly changed as I became concerned about my situation. I even started feeling foolish. What if I don’t have the energy to pull myself, cross-current, the mile west I stll must make? I had already covered 18 miles in an single day and didn’t know how much I had left. I mustered the energy, changed course to due west and gave it all I had.
I was pretty proud of myself when I reached the calm waters between Clark and Barnes.
After a short rest selected a campsite and settled in for a quiet evening. The late afternoon and evening views of Mount Baker to the east are spectacular. I took this photo of a south bound oil tanker and it’s tugboat escorts as they passed between Clark and Lummi Islands.