I visited the Pacific Coast on Washington state’s Olympic Peninsula for the first time since moving to Bellingham three years ago and chose Shi Shi Beach as my destination, a place that’s been referred to as “a jewel in the peninsula’s rugged crown.”
Located at the northern terminus of Olympic National Park’s 57-mile stretch of wilderness coast, this strip of sand wedged between two magnificent headlands really is glorious. At three miles in length, the beach offers ample space for the heavy use it gets from both day trippers and overnight backpackers.
Headlands at the south end of the beach jut into the ocean forming Point of the Arches, an archipelago of rocks and sea stacks, some with arches and caves.
The weather on Saturday was beautiful, clear skies with temperatures in the upper 70s. Aside from birds, the only wildlife I saw was a pair of deer who came down to the beach at sunset to investigate the campsites. On the avian scene, I saw many shore birds, gulls, pelicans, several eagles and a kite. I was pleased to not see a single boat of any sort, aside from some very large ships that were far offshore. Likewise, I heard no engines whatsoever, just the steady crash of waves.
All along the beach are established campsites, both down on the sand and higher up in the forest.
Finding a spot with some well placed logs that formed a bench and table near a fire ring, I decided to camp right on the beach and opted to only set up the rain fly and lay down a ground cloth. The fly provided some much needed shade for afternoon reading and a nap, as well as shelter from the heavy morning dew. It’s been years since I’ve camped on the beach and I had forgotten how pervasive sand can be.
The National Park Service requires that all overnight campers store food and garbage in varmint and bear proof plastic canisters.
While there have been no reported bear problems, the raccoons in the area have become notoriously adept at raiding backpacker’s pantries - even when suspended from trees. The special canisters are available at the park’s Wilderness Information Center in Port Angeles, WA. I had to substantially re-think my packing scheme to fit that thing in my backpack. Some extra reading material and my binoculars lost out in the re-prioritization of necessities.
Tidal pools teaming with sea life can be found at the rocky headlands during periods of low tide.
I saw snails, sea anemone, sea stars, crabs, and many colorful varieties of algae. There were also several large caves which are completely dry at low tide, but entirely submerged at high tide. Nothing brings the curious boy out in me like an outdoor lab ripe for exploration and discovery.
Sunday’s weather brought a different experience. A chilly fog billowed in from the ocean, giving the beach an entirely different atmosphere.
I lounged under my shelter for several hours, enjoying my coffee and reading. I found Shi Shi Beach very relaxing, either in the bright sunshine or blanketed in a pacific northwest fog. It’s certainly place I could visit again.